"Celebrity is all about touch, glamour is untouchable" - to quote Elizabeth Wilson, Professor of Cultural Studies at the London College of Fashion, in her essay; 'A Note on Glamour' (2007). This text has been the point of departure for a new exhibition at Hackney's Live Archives created by curator Jeffrey Horsley. A selection of archival pieces by some of this centuries most influential contemporary designers are exhibited on numbered wig-wearing mannequins sitting on top of a black and silver glittered floor. Each look is numbered and has been styled in the same way an outfit is pulled together for an editorial fashion shoot. Mixing and matching a number of designer labels including; Bodymap, Jean Varon, Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood to name just a few. The mannequins are positioned to form of a circle, each holding an object; possible amulets in front of a backdrop made from shimmering foil party decorations. Certain garments are worn by a live model sitting on a chair in the centre of the circle reading a book. Other pieces are available to buy from a rail at the entrance. All of this with an aim to demonstrate varying notions of glamour. A backlash to today's celebrity-obsessed culture with which fashion maintains a complex relationship. It's against "competitive conformity", it's about "unbridled individualism and the attention of an audience."
It's true that the cult of celebrity further mystifies the concept of glamour. More concerning, though, is the relentless pace at which celebrity culture is disseminated, and everything else for that matter. Our frenzied pace of life, particularly in an industry such as fashion, is consistently craving more. And we have to keep up to keep in the game. There does seem to be a wider cultural reaction to all of this. Many brands are now using archival elements as a way of engaging with consumers. This says a lot. Despite the more widely documented changes at the top, such as Raf Simons stepping down from his role as Dior's creative director because of the sheer speed of the business, there are other things happening at all levels across the fashion landscape that suggest our appreciation of slowing down.
Retail:
Topshop recently launched a collection of "cult classics" for the brand's new 'Archive Collection'. This month, Tiffany & Company and Dover Street Market launched a collaboration featuring objects and jewellery from Tiffany's archives.
Publishing:
The Archivist magazine presents a selection of garments from past collections. The first issues was published in 2014 As professor Judith Clark explains, Archivist looks at "the different ways the past can be retrieved and celebrated and how various the ways are". Self Service magazine handed over the reigns of their last two issues to successful stylists; Marie Amelie Sauve (Spring Summer 2015) and Melanie Ward (Fall Winter 2015). Although the title remains seasonal, flicking through the pages reveals a celebration of the stylists' contribution to fashion over the years. There are also lots of 'stylists own' archival credits in the fashion shoots.
Archive culture has gone viral! It's no longer only about being on season, it's about being out of season.
The Circle | Hackney's Live Archives | 81 Mare Street London E8 4RG |
27 November - 5 December 2015, open 1pm-7pm daily
Production Manager: Ariana Sheenan | Make Up Artist: Kenny Campbell at Premier | Photographer: Paulina Otylie Surys | Hair Artist: Silvio Hauke | Assistants: Tony Tran and Luke Hindley